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<p>Shrubs are the backbone of the gardening, filling empty spaces and providing structure and impact. Pick a foliage or flower colour to suit your&nbsp;scheme.</p>

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Spend £50 on Fiskars garden tools and upload your receipt to their website before 30/6/21 and they will send you a free bee-friendly gardening pack including seeds and seed planting trowel.
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Build the backbone of the garden with shrubs for structure and impact.
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Including poppies, lupins, foxgloves, aubretia, primula, and many more all very popular with pollinators!
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Daily Seed Blend 
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Feed the birds! 
A great, versatile seed mix to be used in feeders, on tables or from the ground.

Birdseed

<p><strong>Birds</strong> are at their most active in <strong>spring</strong>, making nests and raising their young, so it’s the perfect time to do a bit of bird-watching. Here are a few of the birds you’re likely to see in your garden, plus some tips on what to feed them to make sure they keep coming back.&nbsp;</p>

<p><strong>Birds</strong> are at their most active in <strong>spring</strong>, making nests and raising their young, so it’s the perfect time to do a bit of bird-watching. Here are a few of the birds you’re likely to see in your garden, plus some tips on what to feed them to make sure they keep coming back.&nbsp;</p>
<h2>Blackbirds</h2>
<p>Male blackbirds are easy to identify – they’re black, with a bright yellow beak. Female blackbirds are less noticeable, with brown plumage. Blackbirds eat insects, worms, berries and fruit. They are mainly ground-feeding birds to come to food placed on bird tables or the ground. Try putting out dried mealworms and uncooked oats to attract them.</p>
<h2>Blue tits and great tits</h2>
<p>Blue tits are small and colourful, with blue, yellow, white and green markings. Great tits are slightly bigger, with yellow and green plumage. Both eat insects, caterpillars, seeds and nuts, and are welcome visitors in gardens, where they eat quantities of aphids in spring.&nbsp;</p>
<p>Blue tits and great tits will visit hanging bird feeders filled with seeds and nuts, tending to snatch a few seeds and take them elsewhere to eat.&nbsp;</p>
<h2>Robins</h2>
<p>With their bright red breasts and confident manner, robins are a familiar sight in our gardens. They are very territorial, chasing other birds away from their space. Robins eat worms, seeds, insects and fruit, and they love sunflower seeds and mealworms. They are primarily ground-feeders, so although they may occasionally visit a hanging bird feeder, they will prefer feeding tables.&nbsp;</p>
<h2>Goldfinches</h2>
<p>Goldfinches are tiny birds with bright red faces and yellow markings on their brown wings. Their beaks are perfectly designed for extracting the seeds from plants like teasels, thistles and dandelions, so leave a few dandelions growing in the corner of your garden to attract them. Hanging up a nyjer seed feeder will also help bring goldfinches into your garden, as they love the tiny black oil-rich seeds.</p>
<h2>Song thrushes</h2>
<p>Song thrushes are slightly larger than blackbirds and are largely brown with a black-speckled underbelly. Gardeners love thrushes because they eat snails, bashing them against a rock to break the shells. They also eat worms and fruit. To feed thrushes, soak raisins in hot water to plump them up and put them out on feeding tables, along with berries.&nbsp;</p>
<h2>Tips on feeding garden birds</h2>
<p>Make your garden more bird-friendly with these simple tips:</p>
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<p>Plant berry-bearing shrubs and ivy to provide birds with food and shelter</p>
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<p>Keep feeders topped up to avoid birds making wasted trips, especially in winter.</p>
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<p>Put out water for birds to drink and to wash in.</p>
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<p>Clean feeders regularly, scrubbing them out in hot soapy water to avoid bacteria build-up that can spread diseases.</p>
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</ul>
<p>You’ll find everything you need for your garden birds in our centres, including feeders, bird food and bird-friendly plants. Come and visit us today!</p>

Watching garden birds in spring

<p>Weeds can be a real nuisance in the garden. They compete with our favourite plants for water and nutrients, and they spread the minute our backs are turned. As gardeners, we’re always looking for better ways to deal with the problem, so here’s our quick guide on <strong>how to get rid of garden weeds</strong>.&nbsp;</p>

<p>Weeds can be a real nuisance in the garden. They compete with our favourite plants for water and nutrients, and they spread the minute our backs are turned. As gardeners, we’re always looking for better ways to deal with the problem, so here’s our quick guide on <strong>how to get rid of garden weeds</strong>.&nbsp;</p>
<h2>Getting rid of annual weeds</h2>
<p>Annual weeds like chickweed, hairy bittercress, spurge and groundsel grow, set seed and die all within one year. When dealing with annual weeds, the first rule is to get to them before they set seed&nbsp; - there’s a well-known saying that ‘One year’s seed means seven years’ weeds.’ Hoeing is an easy way to tackle these weeds. On a dry day, use the hoe to sever the plant roots just below the ground. Leave the weeds on the surface of the ground to wither and die.&nbsp;</p>
<h2>Controlling weeds by mulching</h2>
<p>Mulching (putting a layer of compost, bark, gravel or other material) on the soil suppresses weeds by blocking light from the seeds, stopping them from germinating. Mulching with organic matter like compost is also great for the soil, improving its structure.&nbsp; Mulch flower beds annually, using a 5cm (2in) layer of compost or well-rotted garden manure. Bark chips make a good mulch around shrubs.&nbsp;</p>
<h2>How to get rid of difficult weeds</h2>
<p>Many weeds can be dug up using a hand fork, but perennial weeds like dandelions, bindweed and ground elder will grow back from any root segments left in the ground, making them difficult to get rid of. Bindweed and ground elder are particularly hard to control because they produce extensive networks of underground roots. Regular hand weeding will weaken them eventually, but ensure you remove as much of the roots as possible. Use a dandelion grubber, which has a long narrow blade, to dig up dandelions.</p>
<p>Difficult perennial weeds can also be killed using a systemic weedkiller containing glyphosate. Systemic weedkillers are absorbed through a plant’s leaves and work their way through the whole plant, killing it right down to the roots. When spraying systemic weedkillers, protect surrounding plants by covering them with plastic sheeting, as the weedkiller will kill any plant it comes into contact with. Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions when using weedkiller.</p>
<h2>Weeds that are good for wildlife</h2>
<p>Weeds do have some benefits, especially for garden wildlife:&nbsp;&nbsp;</p>
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<p><strong>Dandelion flowers</strong> are one of the top food sources for bees early in the year before most other plants are in flower.</p>
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<p><strong>Dandelion seedheads</strong> provide food for small birds like goldfinches and blackbirds.</p>
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<p><strong>Flowering weeds</strong> like daisies, buttercups and clover are good for bees and hoverflies.&nbsp;</p>
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<p><strong>Nettles</strong> provide food for the larvae of many moths and butterflies, including tortoiseshells and peacocks.</p>
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</ul>
<p>If your garden is big enough, it’s worth leaving a few weeds to grow in an unused patch to help support your local wildlife.</p>
<p>Whatever approach you take to tackling your garden weeds, we have all the tools you need, so come and visit us soon!</p>

How to get rid of garden weeds

<p>Whether your garden is big, small or just a few pots on a windowsill, there’s always space to grow herbs. Growing your own herbs means there’s a ready supply any time you need them, and they look good too, often producing flowers that attract bees and other beneficial insects. We’ve picked our five favourite <strong>easy herbs to grow</strong>.</p>

<p>Whether your garden is big, small or just a few pots on a windowsill, there’s always space to grow herbs. Growing your own herbs means there’s a ready supply any time you need them, and they look good too, often producing flowers that attract bees and other beneficial insects. We’ve picked our five favourite <strong>easy herbs to grow</strong>.</p>
<h2>1. Rosemary</h2>
<p>Rosemary is an evergreen shrub with narrow, aromatic leaves that go well with lamb and chicken dishes. Its pretty blue flowers provide early nectar for bees in spring.&nbsp;</p>
<p>Plant rosemary in very well-drained soil, or a pot, in a sheltered, sunny spot. Although it is drought-tolerant, container-grown rosemary will need to be watered regularly in hot summers. Mulch plants in autumn to protect against winter weather and cover them with fleece in very cold areas. Raise pots onto pot feet over winter to improve drainage.</p>
<h2>2. Thyme</h2>
<p>Thyme is a compact evergreen shrub with small, aromatic leaves that are used in many Italian dishes. In late spring and early summer, the whole plant is covered in clusters of tiny pink flowers that bees and other pollinators love. Plant thyme in well-drained soil in full sun, and trim it lightly after it has flowered to stop it from getting leggy.&nbsp;</p>
<h2>3. Basil</h2>
<p>Basil is a tender herb and a vital ingredient in many tomato-based dishes. It thrives in warm weather and needs to be kept at a temperature of above 5°C (41°F). It’s easy to grow basil from seed. Fill a pot with multipurpose compost and scatter a few seeds on top, covering them lightly with more compost or a thin layer of vermiculite. Water and place on a sunny windowsill or in a propagator to germinate. Basil can be planted outside after all the danger of frost is past. Remove any flowers that develop to keep the plant’s energy focused on producing leaves.</p>
<h2>4. Chives</h2>
<p>Chives belong to the allium family and have long green leaves with a delicate onion flavour, which are delicious chopped into salads, herb butter and sauces or added to stir-fries. They flower in late spring and early summer, producing edible purple flower heads that make a lovely addition to a summer salad.&nbsp;</p>
<p>Plant chives in moist, well-drained soil in full sun or light shade, and harvest the leaves as you need them. Chives will die back in winter and reappear in spring.&nbsp;&nbsp;</p>
<h2>5. Mint</h2>
<p>Mint is a robust perennial herb with aromatic leaves, prevalent for herb teas.&nbsp; It spreads rapidly by sending out underground runners and can be invasive, so it’s best grown in a pot, in sun or light shade. Water regularly and pick the leaves as you need them. Mint will die back in winter, but new growth will appear again in spring.&nbsp;</p>
<p>We have a fantastic range of both herb plants and seeds in our centre, so visit us and get your herb garden growing today!</p>

5 easy herbs to grow

<p>These <strong>top 5 flowering shrubs</strong> will keep your garden in bloom most of the year. There are so many to chose from there is a flowering shrub definitely suitable for every single garden. Many are fragrant, some have stunning colours, from evergreens to deciduous, the options are endless. Here are our top 5 suitable for most gardens.&nbsp;</p>

<p>These <strong>top 5 flowering shrubs</strong> will keep your garden in bloom most of the year. There are so many to chose from there is a flowering shrub definitely suitable for every single garden. Many are fragrant, some have stunning colours, from evergreens to deciduous, the options are endless. Here are our top 5 suitable for most gardens.&nbsp;</p>
<h2>1. Sarcococca</h2>
<p>These are wonderful evergreen shrubs with little creamy white flowers. They may be small, but they are seriously fragrant from winter into spring. They give a great deal of interest and fragrance to any garden, along with the berries that follow. Sarcococca confusa is a bushy shrub that grows up to about 2m and often enjoyed in gardens worldwide.&nbsp;</p>
<h2>2. Daphne</h2>
<p>Another fragrant shrub that really comes into its own when there isn’t much else flowering in the garden. The scent can be caught in the air all the way down your garden path, and the flowers are beautiful. Great for small or larger gardens and even better when planted nearby where you will walk so you can catch the scent in the air. The majority are evergreen, so even when they are not flowering, they still greatly interest the garden.</p>
<h2>3. Hebe</h2>
<p>Hebe is a well-known shrub grown all around the world. You can find many different varieties and sizes available to suit most gardens. They can be grown as a stand-alone shrub or for ground cover, even hedging, and as they flower for a long time throughout the year, they are a great nectar source for bees and other pollinators. Chose from many colours such as lilac or white plus variegated foliage.&nbsp;</p>
<h2>4. Weigela</h2>
<p>These are. Low maintenance deciduous shrubs that grow well in many gardens. The foliage ranges from dark green to variegated, and the flowers from deep pink to yellow, which pollinators also love. The shrub will flower in the summer.</p>
<h2>5. Spirea&nbsp;</h2>
<p>Another deciduous shrub with several species available. The foliage is on thin stems, but the clusters of flowers are big and very pretty. They can be long, cascading flowers or small puffs of flower too. There are also some with great autumnal colours too. Spirea ‘bridlewreath’ is one not to be missed.&nbsp;</p>
<p>Shrubs give structure in a garden, homes and food for wildlife, plus nectar for bees. By choosing the right shrub for your garden, it will thrive for many years and provide you with a lot of interest at various stages. Do a little research before you buy, so you know what will be best suited to your garden.&nbsp;</p>
<p>Visit us in store where you will find a selection of shrubs and friendly staff to advise you.&nbsp;</p>

Top 5 Flowering Shrubs

<p>Baked, boiled, chipped or roasted, potatoes are always a winner. And there’s nothing quite like your own potatoes, dug up from the ground like buried treasure. <strong>Growing your own potatoes</strong> means you can choose from a wide range of different potato types, flavours and even colours. If you’ve never grown potatoes before, now’s the perfect time to start.</p>

<p>Baked, boiled, chipped or roasted, potatoes are always a winner. And there’s nothing quite like your own potatoes, dug up from the ground like buried treasure. <strong>Growing your own potatoes</strong> means you can choose from a wide range of different potato types, flavours and even colours. If you’ve never grown potatoes before, now’s the perfect time to start.</p>
<h2>What are maincrop potatoes?</h2>
<p>Maincrop potato tubers are sown in mid to late April. They produce bigger potatoes than the first and second early varieties and take longer to mature. They are best planted in the ground rather than in containers or bags to give the tubers space to grow. Maincrop potatoes generally store well for several months in the right conditions.</p>
<h2>6 good maincrop potatoes to plant</h2>
<p>There’s a huge range of maincrop potatoes to choose from, so we’ve picked out six of our favourites to get you started.</p>
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<p><strong>Potato ‘Desiree’</strong> – red-skinned, waxy potatoes great for mashing or baking</p>
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<p><strong>Potato ‘Maris Piper’</strong> – one of the best-known potatoes, great for baking, roasting and mashing</p>
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<p><strong>Potato ‘Orla’</strong> - a first early potato that can also be left in the ground to mature into a maincrop. It’s both disease and drought-resistant and is ideal for baking and roasting.</p>
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<p><strong>Potato ‘King Edward’</strong> – another trendy variety, fantastic for roasting, with fluffy flesh and delicious crunchy skin.</p>
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<p><strong>Potato ‘Sarpo Mira’</strong> – large pink-skinned potatoes with a floury texture, great for mash.</p>
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<p><strong>Potato ‘Purple Majesty’</strong> – a striking purple potato packed with anti-oxidants.&nbsp; It keeps its purple colour when cooked, causing a sensation on your dinner table!</p>
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</ul>
<h2>How to plant maincrop potatoes</h2>
<p>It’s a good idea to ‘chit’ maincrop potatoes before planting. This means leaving the potatoes somewhere warm and bright indoors for a few weeks to sprout shoots before planting.&nbsp;</p>
<p>Potatoes need a sunny site and well-drained, fertile soil. Dig in lots of compost or well-rotted farmyard manure several weeks before planting. (Ideally, potato beds should be prepared in autumn, ready for planting in spring.)</p>
<p>Plant the potato tubers 12cm (5in) deep, spaced 40cm (16in) apart, in rows spaced 75cm (30in) apart. If you are planting lots of potatoes, it’s easiest to dig a narrow trench rather than individual holes and place them in the trench.</p>
<p>Once the potato seedlings have grown about 25cm (10in) tall, earth them up by mounding up soil around them to cover the stems, leaving the top 10cm (4in) of the plant uncovered. Repeat this process as the plants grow until the mounds are between 20-30cm high. This stops light from reaching the tubers and turning them green and poisonous.&nbsp;&nbsp;</p>
<p>Water your potatoes regularly in dry weather.</p>
<h2>Harvesting maincrop potatoes</h2>
<p>Maincrop potatoes should be ready to harvest from late August to October. When the leaves turn yellow, cut them down and remove them. Leave the potatoes in the ground for 10 days before harvesting.</p>
<p>Whatever you’re growing this year, you’ll find everything you need in our centre. Visit us to see our great ranges of seed potatoes and much more.</p>

How to sow and grow maincrop potatoes

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 Twining climbers, including clematis and passionflowers, are growing fast now. Although they are generally self-supporting, by attaching themselves to wires or trelliswork, at the beginning of the season they benefit from a helping hand. Tie in any flopping shoots to set them in the right direction.

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<p>It's one of the most exciting moments in a gardener's year: you go into your greenhouse or peek at your windowsill to find the seeds you sowed a week ago shyly poking out little green sprouts.</p>
<p>Seed-sowing is hugely satisfying and an economic way to fill your garden in %locations%&nbsp;with